Saturday, October 8, 2016

What does the well-dressed samurai wear? Outfit & Equipment Part 3 (Clothes make the samurai)

Finally, the last bit of Outfit & Equipment. Way too much research into clothes. I know, I know... this may be cut down later. No, it needs to be cut down.

Clothing in Hachigoku varies by season and social caste, with most clothing made of hemp, cotton, or silk. Leather and fur are rarely used, except in the northern mountains or among the Ikeda uji and their associates.

Sidebar: “Kimono” & Outfit

At its most basic definition, kimono just means “a thing to wear.” Everything else is flourish. In your character's outfit, there will be listed a kimono. There might even be 2 kimono. Simply assemble an outfit from the provided clothing appropriate to your character.

A male samurai bushi, for instance, probably wears komon, obi, nagajubin, umanoribakama, tabi, and zori.

A female samurai teishin likely wears homongi, obi, nagajubin, geta, and kanzashi.

An onmyoji mght wear elaborate kimono, or a simple sumue, kiahan, and waragi.

And so on.

Assume that a fundoshi and shitagi are part of your armor, if you have any. Additional clothing items can be chosen as part of your traveling pack, yes, even the Rare items, or provided by your daimyo at appropriate times.

Kimono: Kimono are considered the default clothing of the samurai caste; few others in the Celestial Order can afford them. Merchants and artisans of wealth often can, and various sumptuary laws in different uji han often regulate style so that the lower castes remain visually separate from samurai. The T-shaped kimono is woven of silk, designed to be taken apart for cleaning and stitched back together. The kimono is worn folded over in the front, across the chest, and held closed by the obi, a silk or satin sash acting as a belt; the size of the obi depends on the style of kimono. Samurai tend to wear thick but thin obi, where their two swords are stashed. Purses and other items are often kept within the chest fold, resting against the top of the obi. The sleeves of the kimono fall to the wrist when the arms are down, and are usually wide and loose, depending on style. Those worn by militaristic samurai tend to be plain and reflect their uji's traditional colors and mon; those worn by women, teishin, and prosperous members of the lower caste are highly decorative, with natural vistas, flowers, birds, and butterflies being common. There is among kimono aficionados a complex system of aesthetics varying by season. The kimono have several different variations:
  • Sokutai (Rare): An extremely elaborate and layered formal kimono worn by men, and only during court functions and ceremonies overseen by the Roju, or among the Makino, Oda, or Shimazu uji.
  • Juunihitoe (Rare): An extremely elaborate and layered formal kimono worn by women (it's literal translation istwelve layer robe), and only during court functions and ceremonies overseen by the Roju, or among the Makino, Oda, or Shimazu uji.
  • Furisode (Rare): The furisode is a formal woman's kimono, traditionally worn by unmarried women. The sleeves are huge, hanging below the waist with arms raised level. The obi is wide, covering from the top of the hips to just beneath the armpits. The length reaches below the feet, folding the extra length up underneath the obi, but still being tight about the legs. They are usually reserved for formal ceremonies, and highly decorated.
  • Homongi (Uncommon): Another kimono traditional to women, the homongi is not as elaborate as the furisode, with slightly shorter sleeves. The length is slightly shorter, folded to just above the feet and tight about the legs. It is usually worn during official functions in a daimyo's court or social gatherings. Like the furisode it is highly decorated.
  • Tomesode (Common): This kimono is similar to the homongi, but has drastically smaller sleeves, and is worn by married women. Its decorative patterns occur below the obi, and are considered more conservative.
  • Iromuji (Common): A single-colored kimono with sleeves hanging just above waist, worn by both men and women. The iromuji's length is just above the ankle. Often worn in casual settings or during tea ceremonies.
  • Komon (Common): A single-colored kimono often using a repeating pattern for decoration, it has small sleeves and a length varying from the ankle to the thigh, depending on whether it is traditonal for women or men. Samurai-ko often wear the men's style for ease of movement. Komon are usually worn outside the home.
  • Mofuku ((Uncommon): A plain kimono of black; undergarments and tabi are usually white. This is a traditional kimono for mourning.
  • Uchikake (Rare): The uchikake is more like a coat than a kimono proper. It is highly formal, decorated, and worn over another kimono during an important ceremony (such as a marriage) or stage production. It is not bound by an obi, but instead hangs loose like an overcoat, trailing along the floor.
  • Susohiki (Rare): The susohiki is similar to the homongi, but with a much longer trail. It is traditionally worn by geisha and dancers.
  • Obi (Common): Although not actually a kimono, it is an essential accessory. The obi is sash is wound about the waist like a belt, and can vary in width and thickness, usually by gender and formality. Its folds can as pockets and are tight enough to secure moderate weapons, such as the daisho or jitte.
  • Haori (Uncommon): A hip or thigh-length kimono-like jacket worn on formal occasions, such as in the daimyo's court, by samurai men. It has wide, pointed shoulders.
  • Nagajuban (Common): A thin, silken underkimono robe, usually white, worn to keep the kimono itself clean.

Hakama: The hakama is a wide divided (umanoribakama) or undivided (andonbakama) skirt.
  • Umanoribakama (Common): The divided hakama; when tied, it resembles baggy trousers. Traditionally worn over the obi by men, it is often worn by women who work during the colder seasons, or samurai-ko.
  • Andonbakama (Common): The undivided hakama. Worn traditionally by women, especially those pursuing kyujutsu as the kyudo art or the miiko (shrine maidens).
  • Nagebakama (Uncommon): Extremely long umanoribkama, designed to hinder movement and prevent violence when attending an official function for the daimyo in their court. Trying to move quickly in nagebakama requires an Etiquette/Water roll (TN 15).

Footwear & legwear: There are various types of footwear in Hachigoku, made from materials as different as wood, cotton, grass, hemp, or, rarely, leather.
  • Kiahan (Common): Cotton leggings worn to protect against cold, insects, or as padding underneath the leg guards of armor.
  • Tabi (Common): Cotton socks that vary in length from ankle to knee. During cold seasons, the tabi may be insulated with extra layers of cotton. The toes of the tabi are split between the big toe and the rest, allowing them to be worn easily with sandals.
  • Zori (Common): Commonly woven of bamboo or grass, zori are sandals commonly worn by samurai and wealthier members of the lower castes.
  • Geta (Uncommon): Sandals made of wood, with either one or two slats raising the base. Usually worn during ceremonies or in cities. Their distinctive clacking noise makes them unsuitable for stealth.
  • Waragi (Common): Made from woven strands of hemp rope, the waragi are common to both the lower castes and gakusho.
  • Gutal (Rare): The gutal are thick leather boots with upturned toes, designed to help a rider remain in the stirrups. They are worn exclusively by Ikeda samurai.

Headgear: Aside from helmets, people of Hachigoku wear stuff on their heads, too.
  • Eboshi (Rare): A small, peaked black cap worn by teishin for official functions and ceremonies.
  • Hachimaki (Common): A bandana, usually red or white and often with writing, that symbolizes intense concentration and effort on the part of the wearer. Often worn by students, bushi, laborers, and festival performers to soak up sweat from the forehead.
  • Kanzashi (Uncommon): Hair ornaments worn by women. Many different styles exist, including silk flowers, wooden combs, and even jade hairpins.
  • Kasa (Common): The kasa is a low, conical hat worn throughout Hachigoku, usually made of straw or bamboo strips. It often has a chin stap.
  • Tsunokakushi (Rare): A simple rectangular piece of white cloth worn in an ornate fashion atop a bride's head during a wedding ceremony.

Yutaka (Common): The yutaka are similar to kimono, but lighter and made of cotton. Some yukata are even made of hemp, among the lowest castes. The designs can be plain or simple, depending on season and social caste. Most yutaka resemble komon or iromuji kimono, while more elaborate styles are reserved for festivals and formal occasions. They are especially popular during the summer, but non-samurai often wear them year-round.

Fundoshi (Common): Fundoshi is a loin cloth undergarment worn by men or by both sexes when wearing armor. It is often worn by laborers when the weather is particularly hot.

Shitagi (Common): A white undershirt, made of cotton, commonly worn by samurai underneath their armor.

Gi (Uncomon): Often padded, these cotton kimono-like clothes are worn in the dojo during training, usually in unarmed combat. While the most traditional color is white, certain dojo may prefer other colors as a way of standing out.

Kesa (Uncommon): The kesa is a flowing, cotton robe wrapped around the wearer over the shoulder, usually leaving one shoulder bare. Other clothes may be worn under it. The exact style varies by shinden, as it is the traditional robe of onmyoji who live in monasteries.

Samue (Uncommon): Made from cotton, the samue is a kimono-like garment worn by onmyoji for labor, such as temple maintanence or field work. It is usually brown or indigo to differentiate it from more formal clothing.

Happi (Common): A haori-like jacket of cotton, light and often worn by merchants and at festivals. It has wide sleeves but lacks the pointed shoulders of the haori. Thick, leather happi (considered Rare) are usually worn by urban firefighters, and count as ashigaru armor in a fight.

Netsuke (Common to Rare): Ornamental jewelry hung from the obi, usually by men.

  • Biwa (Uncommon): A four-stringed, pear-shaped lute.
  • Fue (Common): A bamboo flute.
  • Horagai (Rare): A seashell horn.
  • Hyoushigi (Uncommon): Wooden or bamboo clappers, often used in noh theatre.
  • Ikko (Common): A small, hourglass-shaped hand drum.
  • Kagura-suzu (Rare): A hand-held bell tree with three tiers of pellet bells.
  • Kokyu (Rare): A three-stringed fiddle.
  • Koto (Uncommon): A thirteen-stringed harp, played resting upon the ground horizontally.
  • Mokugyo (Rare): Giant woodblock carved in the shape of a fish, struck with a wooden stick. Often used in Shintao chanting.
  • O-tsuzumi (Common): A hand drum.
  • Shakuhachi (Rare): A long bamboo flute used to aid meditation.
  • Shamisen (Uncommon): A three-stringed instrument similar to a guitar, but with a thin body and longer neck. Popular for use in kabuki.
  • Shime-daiko (Uncommon): A small drum played with sticks (bachi) on a short stand.
  • Shouko (Uncommon): A small bronze gong.
  • Tsuchibue (Common): A globular ceramic flute popular with the lower castes.
  • Tsuri-daiko (Uncommon): A large drum played with sticks (bachi) on an ornate stand.

Everything Else
There are a wide variety of items for purchase or crafting within Hachigoku. While many are analogous to medieval Europe or even modern times, those particular to Hachigoku are listed below:
  • Backpack (Common): The standard backpack is made of wicker, and designed like a box, worn over the shoulders and held in place with hemp or silk ties.
  • Books (Uncommon): Among samurai books are highly prized, with many even keeping journals. The books are bound with cords, but open and read right to left, with writing in vertical strips. People in towns are often hungry for books and shinbun, pamphlets that are serialized and cheap. Lower castes in rural areas are often illiterate.
  • Chomchog (Rare): A huge tent used in the northern steppes. It can host a family of twelve comfortably. Its immense size requires a cart and oxen to transport.
  • Chopsticks (Common): Chopsticks are the most common utensil for eating, often made of wood but occasionally made of finer materials such as silver or ivory.
  • Daisho Stand (Uncommon): A special wooden stand crafted to hold a katana and wakizashi, sheathed, for display. Most have the swords held horizontally. However, special stands designed to hold the katana vertically, blade down, are often used by daimyo or military commanders during official audiences, allowing them to quickly draw and strike in case of emergency. Such a stand allows you to use the Iaijutsu Skill. Other stands may have a third set of hooks for holding a matched tanto.
  • Dice and Dice Cup (Common): Dicing in Hachigoku is a popular form of both recreation and gambling.
  • Folding Fan (Uncommon): Fans are a common accessory in Hachigoku, used by both men and women. Many are made of sandalwood ribs with paper designs, while exquisite ones are made of ivory with silk designs. More information on these as weapons can be found in the Tessenjutsu weapon descriptions.
  • Folding Stool (Common): A small folding stool is used often used when outside, so that samurai do not have to sit on the ground. Inside a building, people of Hachigoku tend to sit on the floor and do not use funriture such as chairs or couches.
  • Furoshiki Sack (Common): A bundle of fabric folded and thrown over the shoulder; used to carry small items.
  • Go Set (Uncommon): A square board for playing the game of go, and the white and black stones used. Elaborate Fine Quality sets include lacquered bowls to store each kind of stone, and boards made of expensive hardwood.
  • Hanko (Common): This is a personal seal (or chop) made from wood and unique to each samurai. First dipped in ink, the hanko is applied to letters and official documents as a signature. Each hanko is registered by the local daimyo, and usually incorporate the samurai's full name. Prominent artisans and merchants also use hanko. Your samurai, unless they are ronin, have one automatically.
  • Inro (Uncommon): A small, segmented box used to carry personal belongings.
  • Kemari Ball (Rare): A leather ball used in the teishin game kemari.
  • Kiseru (Common): A simple, straight smoking pipe.
  • Kube Bukuro (Uncommon): Ahead sack,used to transport the head of an enemy without forcing one to touch dead flesh. Also commonly used by Hida samurai to transport the heads of slain Shadowlands creatures for study.
  • Lantern (Common or Rare): Lanterns are a common sight in Hachigoku. Most are paper lanterns, carried on long staves or hung in the air; when not in use, the candles are removed and the lanterns easily fold up into round or square parcels. Metal lanterns are much rarer, and smuggled in by foreign trade.
  • Medicine Kit (Rare): This includes basics such as needles and thread, cloth bandages, and herbal disinfectant. It also includes longer needles needed for acupuncture. Each kit is good for up to fifty uses of the Medicine Skill.
  • Pet (Uncommon): Pets are small animals (separate from livestock) owned purely for personal companionship. Popular pets in Hachigoku include dogs, cats, birds, and even monkeys. Hachigoku boasts some curious caged pets as well, usually held in wooden cages. The most popular include insects (such as lucky crickets, large scorpions, preying mantises, and butterflies) and birds (especially songbirds such as canaries and nightingales). Often, these caged pets are bought just to be released for luck or spiritual gain.
  • Sake Set (Common): A crafted porcelain bottle and small cups (usually four in a set) for drinking sake.
  • Scrolls (Uncommon): While books are in common use, official documents and religious texts (including spells) remain written in flowing scrolls.
  • Shogi Set (Uncommon): A popular game similar to Western chess, it is a tactical square board game with several pieces with unique moves.
  • Sumi-e Box (Uncommon): A small box containing brushes, several ink stones, a water bowl, and sand to speed the drying process.
  • Tea Set (Uncommon): A ceramic bowl for mixing the tea, a kettle for boiling, and ceramic cups for drinking (usually four in a set).
  • Tissue (Common): Paper is so rife in Hachigoku that samurai often keep small squares of it tucked into their sleeves for use as a handkerchief, which is quickly tossed to the ground and forgotten.
  • Umbrella (Common): Made of bamboo and thick paper, the umbrella is a common sight in the cities of Hachigoku.
  • Yurt (Rare): A large tent limited to the northern steppes, it can house a family of four comfortably.

Sidebar: Traveling Pack Contents

Almost all characters are issued in their Discipline's Outfit a traveling pack. But what's in it? Basically, the traveling pack is a collection of miscellaneous items for traveling, but can also represent other items peculiar to your interests, hobbies, and specific needs.

You can have any 10 items in your traveling pack, chosen from the list below:
1 item or outfit of clothing, 1 instrument, basket, blacksmith's hammer, blanket, book, bottle of bleach or dye, bottle of plum wine, bottle of sake, bottle of shochu, bottle of water, bucket, candles (6), chomchog, chopsticks, coin purse, cooking pot, daisho stand, dice and dice cup, finger of jade, fishing net or pole, flint and tinder, folding fan, folding stool, go set, grappling hook, hand mirror, hanko, incense brazier, inro, jewelry or accessory (netsuke, earing, eyepatch, or bracelet), kiseru, kubi bakuro, lantern, makeup kit, mask, medicine kit, mortar and pestle, paper (10 sheets), parchment and charcoal (10 pieces of each), perfume vial, pet, rope (50'), sake set, scroll, shovel, sashimono, shogi set, small sculpture, small tent, spices, sumi-e writing box, sweets, tattoo kit, tea set, tissues (50) ukiyo-e painting, umbrella, walking stick, week's supply of rations (usually rice cakes, bean paste, and dried fish), whetstone, wig, yurt

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